Taebaeksan
Just hearing the name of Taebaeksan (Mt. Taebaek) is enough to stir excitement.
For me, Taebaeksan was the first mountain I set out to climb that was located far from home, and the anticipation made my heart race. As one of the most important mountains of Korea, I prepared myself with a strong mindset before starting the ascent.
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I set my navigation to the Yuilsa Temple parking lot, and on arrival, I found it quiet and calm since it was a weekday. Still, I could see several hikers preparing to start their journey up the mountain.
The weather was clear and warm, but once I entered the shade of Taebaeksan’s sturdy trees, the cool breeze made the hike more refreshing.
When you arrive at Yuilsa’s parking lot, you will notice its large size, a sign that Taebaeksan attracts many visitors. Leaving the parking area and following the concrete path upward, you come across vast fields scattered with stones. I found myself wondering what kind of crops might be grown there—perhaps potatoes, since this is Gangwon Province, which is famous for them.
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The trail shows signs of many hikers having passed through. It is also wide enough for small vehicles to deliver daily necessities to Yuilsa, which shows just how many people visit both the temple and the mountain.
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To reach Yuilsa itself, one must descend downhill, which also means climbing back up again—a thought that made me hesitate. Instead, I took photos from afar. I also spotted a cable lift transporting supplies to the temple, which was a fascinating sight in the quiet of the forest.
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Yuilsa Temple
Taebaeksan is part of the great Baekdudaegan mountain range that stretches from Mt. Baekdu in the north to the East Sea and rises proudly between Taebaek, Yeongwol, and Bonghwa. On its summit are the sacred Cheonjedan altars and Munsu Peak, while Yuilsa Temple is nestled on the northwestern slope.
The mountain’s valleys give birth to Korea’s two great rivers: Hwangjiyeon, flowing southeast, forms the headwaters of the Nakdong River, and Geomnyongso, flowing northward, is the source of the Han River.
Yuilsa’s history goes back to the 1930s when a Buddhist nun named Sunil prayed at this sacred place. Although she later left due to the harsh environment, the site was revived in 1959 when a devout Buddhist, inspired by a vision of the great monks Wonhyo and Uisang meditating beneath a rock, founded the temple once again. Under Abbess Beopryun, the temple grew into a flourishing center, with halls such as Muryangsu-jeon, Muisunwon, Samseonggak, and the Eungnak Pagoda.
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The temple is also home to the Portrait of Ksitigarbha Bodhisattva, designated as Gangwon Province Cultural Property No. 162.
As I climbed higher, I began to see ancient trees. Though I have never visited in winter, I could imagine how breathtaking the snowy landscape must be. The trail is well-maintained, and I promised myself I would return one winter to witness Taebaeksan’s famous snowscape.
I once heard from an acquaintance who, even at the age of seventy, climbed Taebaeksan every December. Experiencing the mountain myself, I began to understand why.
Reaching the summit, I was greeted with views of nearby Hanbaeksan Mountain. From Taebaeksan’s peak, looking out toward Hanbaeksan filled me with a sense of pride and awe.
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Cheonjedan Altars
National Folklore Cultural Heritage
The Cheonjedan altars on the summit of Taebaeksan were built of piled stones for rituals offered to heaven. Today, they are divided into three altars: Cheonwangdan at the center, Janggundan to the north, and Hadan to the south.
The exact date of their construction is unknown, but records such as the Samguk Sagi (History of the Three Kingdoms) suggest that Taebaeksan has been considered sacred since ancient times and used for ceremonies to honor heaven. Even today, rituals are performed here on October 3rd, National Foundation Day of Korea, to pray for peace and prosperity. This is also the site where the torch for the annual Gangwon Province Sports Festival is lit.
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Janggundan Altar
Located about 300 meters north of Cheonwangdan, the Janggundan altar stands on Janggunbong Peak, the highest point of Taebaeksan. Larger than Cheonwangdan, it is enclosed by walls of uncut stones about three meters high, forming a rectangular shape. Inside stands a square altar, upon which several natural stones are erected like steles, creating a simple yet solemn structure.
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Cheonwangdan Altar
Of the three Cheonjedan altars, Cheonwangdan is the largest and the center of ritual activity. Built of natural stones about two meters high in a circular formation, it contains a square stone altar within. On top stands a small stele with the inscription “Hanbaegom,” an honorific title of Dangun, the legendary founder of Korea.
The monument was erected by Daejonggyo, a native Korean religion that venerates Dangun. To this day, the site is regarded as one of Korea’s most sacred places.
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Along the trail, I noticed an abundance of ferns, a common sight on Taebaeksan. These seedless plants reproduce by spores and thrive in moist, shaded environments. At first, their curled young fronds seemed eerie, but once unfurled, they appeared both delicate and fascinating. Their presence reminded me of the ancient forests that have endured here for countless years.
Surely, such greenery will continue to thrive as long as we protect these forests for future generations.
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Though Taebaeksan is not easily reached from Seoul, the experience was unforgettable, and I left with the desire to return in winter.
If you ever have the chance, I recommend visiting Taebaeksan to feel the spirit and history of Korea’s sacred mountain for yourself.
Thank you.