Hiking Alone in the Mountains of Gangwon Province – Geumsusan
This time, I set out for Geumsusan, beginning my hike in comfort from a small village near the trailhead.
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The Sanghak Parking Lot was spacious and well maintained, clearly popular with many hikers. Although the mountain’s mid-slope hosts a village, I couldn’t quite tell what the main crops were. What I did notice, however, was the pristine water, the clean slopes, and houses that looked as neat and charming as modern guesthouses.
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Starting from halfway up the mountain, I thought the hike would be easier than usual—but I soon realized it was still a good challenge. Nevertheless, it was an enjoyable journey. It’s a mountain even seniors hike with ease, so if you go with plenty of time, there’s no need to feel pressured.
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About Geumsusan
Located in Samtae-ri, Jeokseong-myeon, about 20 km northwest of Danyang, Geumsusan rises to 1,016 m. From its summit, the Namhan River flows below like a painted scroll, the layered cliffs unfolding like an ancient artwork. To the east lies Sobaeksan, to the south Woraksan and Malmoksan, and beyond that the landscapes of Chungju blending together to form one of Korea’s most breathtaking vistas.
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Once called Baegamsan, the mountain was renamed when Toegye Yi Hwang, serving as the governor of Danyang, visited during his scholarly studies. Enchanted by the scenery, he likened it to “embroidering with nature,” and named it Geumsusan (“Mountain of Embroidered Scenery”).
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The mountain’s shape is said to resemble a reclining woman, her facial features clearly outlined. Each season brings a different beauty. Local legend says its strong feminine energy can shorten a man’s life, and so a Namgeunseok (“Phallic Rock”) was placed in the village of Pumdal at its base. Newlyweds once came here to spend their wedding night to ensure the birth of a healthy son, and women without sons prayed here for a child. The original stone was damaged in the late Joseon Dynasty but was restored in 2001 with stone and wood, creating a small park that has since become a unique tourist attraction.
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Every third week of October, the Geumsusan Autumn Foliage Festival is held, where you can buy fresh local produce and join hikers from all over Korea to enjoy the mountain trails.
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Geumsusan Hiking Course
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Distance: 4.2 km
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Time Required: 3 hours 10 minutes
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Route (Course 1): Sanghak Parking Lot → Rest Area → Namgeunseok Park → Temple Site → Ongdal Spring → Salgae Rock → Geumsusan Summit → Geumsusan Junction → Dolmoe Pass → Seopaengi Pass → 790 m Ridge → Sanghak Parking Lot
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At a fork in the road, turning right at the Geumsusan stone marker takes you up Course 1; turning left leads you to Course 2 (the reverse loop).
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I had planned to return the same way I came up (Course 1), but a large group of hikers was having lunch at the spot, and I didn’t want to weave through them twice. So instead, I completed the full loop.
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Dodamsambong – by Yi Beom
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The mountains glow with autumn leaves,
The river sparkles with sandy stars,
Three peaks rise in the evening light,
Casting their shadows on the water.
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Immortals moor their boats,
While long blue cliffs watch,
And under starlight and moonlight,
The golden waves dance and wait.
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Passing through the village, I noticed a small garden built around a pool of clear water. It looked rustic at first glance, but the care put into it was obvious. I found myself wishing for just such a water garden at home.
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Legend of Namgeunseok
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As mentioned, Geumsusan’s beauty is tied to its “reclining woman” shape and its strong feminine spirit. In the past, the Namgeunseok stone in Pumdal Village was visited by newlyweds hoping for a son, and by women praying for a child. Though damaged in the late Joseon era, it was rebuilt on August 15, 2001, by local residents.
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When I passed by, groups of hikers—especially women—were laughing and making lighthearted jokes about the large stone. Smaller replicas stood nearby, catching everyone’s attention.
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July 2009 – written at the Danggae rest spot
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As you walk a snowy path,
Be mindful of each step.
The tracks you leave today
May become the road for someone tomorrow.
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The path up to Namgeunseok is well maintained, making for an easy ascent. The descent was also tempting to take by the same route, thanks to the good trail.
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Changseokdae – by Toegye Yi Hwang
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With a mast of cassia wood
And sails of orchid cloth,
I part the green waves
And climb to the blue stone terrace.
It feels like stepping into mist.
A gentle breeze sweeps away
Autumn’s lingering fragrance,
And a single beam of cold light
Shines upon the jade cliffs.
The eastern ridge of Wondang,
The western slopes of Yedam—
Both reveal the eternal mysteries of nature.
At 1,016 meters, Geumsusan is surprisingly friendly to climb, thanks to the mid-mountain parking lot. From the summit’s wooden deck, you can rest while enjoying panoramic views, including the village and parking lot far below.
With modern smartphone cameras, I could zoom in and see details I couldn’t with the naked eye. While I couldn’t spot my car among the rooftops, the wide-open view made the summit feel all the more satisfying.
Hiking Rules:
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No cooking
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No smoking
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No littering
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No pets
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Do not damage the environment
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The descent passed through neighborhoods of beautiful houses, giving the impression of a hillside resort. Living here would surely be healthy—clean water, fresh air, and mountains filling the view from every window.
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Back at the parking lot, a little past lunchtime, I cooked instant noodles at a picnic table. With fresh running water from the wash area and plenty of shade, it was the perfect end to the hike.
On the summit, groups of older hikers had feasts like at a family gathering. I ate simply, then set off for my next mountain adventure.
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